Reading and Books

Nursebean Reads: Winter 2016

imageWhen I decided to commit to spending one day a week “unplugged” from work and screens as my resolution at the beginning of 2016, I expected that in addition to going back to regular churchgoing,  I would spend more time sewing and would be even more productive than usual. And I have had a couple of uninterrupted sewing sessions during the last ten weeks and I made two dresses and a pair of PJ pants for my daughter. But what surprised me is that even more than sewing, what I have really relished is uninterrupted time to read, particularly in the early morning before church when the sun is coming up and the house is quiet and still. I have always enjoyed reading. I belong to a book group and I read for fun. But for many years, I was frustrated at the ever growing gap between the number of books I wanted to read and the number I had time to read, especially during the almost ten years I spent going back to school to become a Nurse Practitioner when all I read were text books and journal articles. I also have a long list of classics I feel I should have read but never did and I was starting to think I never would. But, this year has been different. I have read almost as many books in the last 10 weeks as I did all last year and it has been really wonderful. Not so much because I am crossing titles off a list but because having one day of the week with no plans means that I have a day when I can start a book on Friday and then read it all Sunday and really get into the flow of the book. It is different kind of experience than a chapter a night. Like watching a movie, I get caught up in the story and don’t want to stop reading. And I have read some great books which I am excited to share.

imageI also found some great resources online and learned how to make the most of my local  library. And my husband gave me a kindle for a surprise birthday present back in January which I am really enjoying although I still do most of my reading the old fashioned way with printed books from the library.

I find the books I end up loving from a couple of trusted sources. These include the online group Great New Books which I follow on Facebook. This is a group of avid readers, some of whom are bloggers. I have enjoyed the variety of books that they recommend because each has different interests. One of the Great New Books members is Lindsey Mead who blogs at A Design So Vast. She and I seem to have similar taste in books and I have found books I have loved because I have followed her recommendations.

I have followed the writer Catherine Newman for several years. She blogs about parenting and life and shares amazing recipes on her blog, Ben and Birdy. I have not gone wrong reading books she recommends. I also highly recommend her book, Waiting for Birdy about pregnancy, motherhood, siblings. She is laugh out loud funny and also captures the magic and awe of parenting. It is a must read for all you young parents and parents to be. I am eagerly awaiting her new book: Catastrophic Happiness which is coming out next month. I pre-ordered it for my Kindle, something I have never done before, because I know it will be that good.

My main new source of great books and suggestions about how to fit in more reading time is Anne Bogel who blogs at Modern Mrs Darcy. Anne has always had great book suggestions and summer reading lists but I have sometimes been overwhelmed by the sheer number of titles on her lists but at the beginning of this year she started a new podcast, called What Should I Read Next. It is a simple premise: she has one guest and she gets feedback on books that they have loved and hated to make recommendations, but so far, there has been a wonderful magic that happens in the very short podcasts-20 minutes or so-and the conversations are really fun to listen to. Each guest has been really unique in terms of their taste, background, why they read and it has made the show so much fun to listen to and has added many new to-be-read titles to my lists. Anne also rates audio books, something I never took advantage of but as the result of a blog post she did about how to use Overdrive to download audio books from your local library, I have really enjoyed them in the car and at home when hand-sewing. I have also started reserving books I want to read online and picking them up from the library which saves a lot of time and money and motivates me to keep reading. I have picked up a couple of books that appealed to me at the library on a whim-because they were near the checkout. A few were forgettable but a several were great reads that I might have missed otherwise. All in all, I have read over 30 books in ten weeks-25 books and 7 audiobooks. I don’t read all genres but I do bounce back and forth between more heavy duty fiction and lighter smart chick-lit and murder mysteries and my favorite genre is probably memoir. I like contemporary fiction where the plot is unpredictable and the characters have flaws but I like there to be some hope and I like to like the characters. I have a hard time with books where the main character is unlikable or with whom I can’t identify at all. So here are the best of the group.

Fiction:

11/22/63 by Stephen King-it’s long but very captivating. He is an amazing storyteller. I could not put it down but it took several days to read–a commitment but worth it

Brown Girl Dreaming by Jacqueline Woodson-it is fiction but based on the author’s childhood. Told in free verse. I listened to the author read the book as an audiobook. Highly recommend

The Red Notebook by Antoine Laurent-translated from the french, a little gem of a book. Quite short if you have limited time. I enjoyed it and was sorry when I was done reading it. I then read The President’s Hat, by the same author. Equally charming but if you have time to just read one, I would read The Red Notebook

Fates and Furies by Lauren Groff-this falls into the category of a book I am glad I read because it was well written and gave me food for thought but I wouldn’t exactly call it enjoyable. Quite intense and thought-provoking. Probably a good book club read.

The Last Days of Rabbit Hayes by Anna McPartlin-mom dying of cancer so skip it if this is something you would have a hard time with but I loved the book. I loved the characters and the family she portrays.

Come Rain or Come Shine by Jan Karon-10 years ago before I went back to grad school, I had read all of the Mitford books and really loved them but life got crazy there for many years and I missed a couple. I grabbed this from the library shelf and was really glad I did, especially since my daughter got married last year.

Memoir:

The Light of the World by Elizabeth Anderson-beautiful, heartbreaking-a must read, unless it would be very upsetting to you to read about the death of a spouse-in that case pass

When Breath Becomes Air by Paul Kalanthi-beautiful, heartbreaking, a must read-same caveat as above and the author here has cancer so if that is difficult for you then pass

Between the World and Me by Ta-Nehisi Coates-a letter from a father to son. I listened to the author read this and it was incredibly powerful. It is about 3.5 hours long. Can’t recommend more highly. I will listen to it again. In these times with all that is going on in our country, this needs to be heard.

This is the Story of a Happy Marriage by Ann Patchett-I loved her essays about her writing process, her relationships with her grandmother and her husband and everything in between. The Getaway Car, a story about becoming a writer, should be required reading for anyone who wants to write

Gratitude by Oliver Sacks-four long essays previously published. I had read them all before but got so much from them on rereading. I have this on my kindle and I know I will go back to it

Hammerhead-the Making of a Carpenter by  Nina Maclaughlin. I loved this. I loved reading about the nuts and bolts of how this writer started out with no experience and learned a trade. I loved reading about Boston where my son lives. It reminded me of learning to be a nurse. Knowing about something and actually learning and performing the skills are very things. She also had some wise observations that she shared along her journey. Highly enjoyable. Not heartbreaking!

For the medical people: When the Air Hits Your Brain  by Frank Vertosick, Jr MD-I really liked the author’s writing style and I have liked this genre of medical memoir since I was in 6th grade and read Emergency Room Diaries. I learned a lot too. Might not be for the non-medical people or those who are squeamish

My Kitchen Year by Ruth Reichl. I expected to like this but I ended up really loving it. I focused less on the recipes-although they looked amazing-I may  have to buy the book at some point-I read the library copy–and read the little stories that introduced each recipe. Really a wonderful book. She wrote about picking up the pieces of her life after the magazine that she was the editor in chief of-Gourmet-folded under her watch. She comes across as someone who you would like to have for a friend-and not just because she would make you the best food you ever ate.

Four Seasons in Rome by Anthony Doerr-a memoir of a year he spent as a Fellow in Rome working on the novel that would eventually-ten years later-because All the Light We Cannot See- and being a new parent to twin babies. I love the descriptions of the city and the honesty he has in describing parenting and the struggle to put words to page.

Murder Mysteries:

I am loving the Flavia De Luce series on audiobook. The best. SO wonderful-although the heroine has a love of chemistry and the macabre so be forewarned, she will discuss the decomposition of bodies so if this would upset you, beware. But the narrator is so fantastic, the writing is smart, the character is so engaging-as if Roald Dahl’s Matilda became a sleuth. I will be sad when I am done with them but will probably listen to them all over again next year. They are that good.

I discovered a fun new series through Great New Books:  the Amory Ames mysteries by Ashley Weaver: Murder at the Brightwell and Murder Wears a Mask. They have a Downtown Abbey feel and there is some romance. Very fun. There are just two so far but I am hoping she will write more.

I also read a couple of the Aunt Dimity series by Nancy Atherton which I have enjoyed for many years and the latest book in Louise Penny’s Inspector Gamache series which are very different in terms of style but both very enjoyable.

How to Read More

I have adopted many of the suggestions Anne Bogel makes here. I read multiple books at a time. I have a book available on my phone at all times because the kindle syncs to the phone, I listen to audio books in the car and when I sew. But the biggest change has been having one day of the week that is unscheduled and during which I don’t go online. It has really enabled me to read in a a way that was not possible for many years and for that I am very grateful.

I keep track of the books I read on Goodreads. I like being able to look back and see what I read and what I loved most. I don’t write reviews but I do rate the books and Goodreads has a tab called STATS that you can click on that will sort the books by year and by rating. I also like to be able to add books I want to read to my Goodreads account so I don’t forget the titles.

Right now I am loving Big Magic by Elizabeth Gilbert. I was not a huge fan of Eat Pray Love. I think I read it when I was also newly divorced and so broke that reading about her travels was hard to relate to but I loved her novels: The Signature of All Things and Stern Men, a novel about lobstermen on an island in Maine that I read way before Eat Pray Love and before I knew who she was. It is interesting reading her take on the creative process right after reading Ann Patchett’s book since they are friends and have similar insights.

Happy reading! And check out What Should I Read Next  on itunes even if you are a mom with no time to read.  You can subscribe for free. I honestly look forward to the new episode each Tuesday. And all you moms, have faith. You won’t always be up to your eyeballs in laundry and soccer practice. One day you will have time. For now, you have to be creative and use nap time or do what I did and tell your kids after dinner that if they are very very good and brush their teeth and get into bed in their jammies, they can have extra “Quiet Reading Time”. I did this every evening. I tucked each one into bed with a stack of books and they loved it. And then you can read your book-if you are not too exhausted. But you have to start them early! I also love what Austin Kleon says here in his post on How to Read More. Pay particular attention to number 1.

More all-time favorite reads for adults and kids below.

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Double Gauze Washi is the Charm

imageBack in October, I was lucky enough to find myself in Austin, Texas, visiting my son for his birthday and staying with a friend I have known for over 20 years through two states  (we both moved from the same Brooklyn neighborhood to the same school district in the same Connecticut town without realizing it and ran into each other at the elementary school), one preschool playgroup, parenting teenagers, our respective divorces, many bowls of bibimbap (she is Korean and we have had many fun shared meals with and without kids) and many other hills and valleys of our respective lives. While I was there we had a bit of time to kill on a Sunday afternoon before we met my son and his girlfriend for dinner (food in Austin = amazing btw) and I set the gps for a little store I had seen online, The Cloth Pocket. Once there I realized that I had stumbled on a gem. They have lots of fabric but what sets them apart is how carefully curated the inventory is-you basically want to buy everything in the store because it is all amazing. The store owner has great taste. My friend Ginny looked on in a bit of shock as I went to town, knowing that I was stocking up for projects for the next year. One of the things I bought was this beautiful Ellen Baker double gauze. The fabric is called Charms and you may still be able to get it  by linking here.imageI like to make two of a pattern at a time. I started the double gauze dress and a second Washi with sleeves (made with Bound fabric by April Rhodes also from the Cloth Pocket-sadly now sold out-) right after the holidays. I worked on these a bit at a time. Here are the bodices. I have made the Washi dress pattern 8 times this year so it goes really fast.image The double gauze is a bit trickier to work with than quilting cotton. It stretches and shifts and frays and so I wanted to do french seams which took a bit more time. In my experience, it is better to cut the pattern with a bigger seam allowance for the seams that you plan to french seam. I did that in this case and it ended working well. I actually sewed the first seam and still had a lot of frayed threads poking through so I sewed a second seam.imageLuckily I had enough ease and while the fit is close, it fits nicely. Double gauze has a bit more give than quilting cotton so I planned to make the fit a bit closer.imageLooking at this picture reminds me that I have plans for this blue chair that involve fabric that isn’t blue! Hoping to learn how to make a slipcover sometime this year. The good thing about double gauze is that it has good recovery. One time through the washer and dryer and you wouldn’t have any idea that it had stretched in the sewing/ironing process.imageI made a size Medium and added 2 inches to the length (I am 5’9″). This is shorter than  my typical Washi. I usually add 3 inches but recently I have made a couple of somewhat shorter versions to wear in the winter and fall with tight or leggings and boots. The summer versions I like to have about knee length and the double gauze version falls a couple of inches above the knee. Washi in progress post shirring below. There is a great explanation of how to do the shirring on the Made by Rae website.imageI lined the bodice with organic cotton unbleached batiste which I bought from fabric.com and which I need to buy more of because it is a perfect lining fabric. I top stitched around the neck seam because I  thought it would make the neckline hold its shape better. I do this about half the time depending on the fabric I use.  I used the sleeve pattern that you can print from the Made by Rae website. Rae has a tutorial that explains how to measure and add sleeves. imageI added a bit of ribbon with snaps for bra and slip straps. The key is to remember to do that during the sewing of the lining which gives a much nicer finish. I used the video tutorial by Rae for sewing the lining using the sausage technique to get a clean finish. It is bit tricky with the sleeves since there is quite a lot of fabric in the fabric sausage but it ended up working well.

I finished the hems with a facing made of quilting cotton in a pale pink print. I cut a 3 inch strip for the main hem and a 2 inch strip for the sleeves.See below-a bit rumpled after wearing. The width of the finished hem below is a bit less than 1 1/2 inches. imageI sew the strips on with a 3/8 seam (eyeballing it) and then fold and iron and sew a line of stitching to catch the upper edge. These are not bias binding, just strips of fabric cut on the grain. Since they are going to be sewn on to a basically  straight edge, I find that this works fine and it is much quicker and easier than bias strips. For the double gauze dress sleeves, I used a 2 inch strip and created a channel and inserted elastic.imageOn the Bound version I used a 3 inch strip for both of the hems because I didn’t plan to use elastic and I thought it would lie flatter and that has been the case. Although I didn’t originally plan it, I ended up using the same pink cotton for both dress facings since it was the perfect weight and I had just enough. Sleeve facing in process below. I fold it so that the amount folded under is almost as big as the hem. It lies nice and flat. I don’t have any issue with not catching the entire folded edge and I am happy with the finished product. I do a lot of ironing. I iron the first seam after I sew it and then fold on the seam and iron and then do the sort of three way fold and iron again inside out and then flip it and iron it on the right side prior to sewing and make sure I am happy with how everything lines up before I sew. Sometimes it is so well ironed that I don’t even pin the sleeves. I do pin the hem to make sure nothing shifts.imageIf I were using a fancier fabric, I would hand sew the hem but I have used this technique for quilting cotton, heavy flannel and double gauze and I am really happy with it.image I like the little bit of a contrasting fabric, it is quick and it is forgiving and the seam between the two fabrics is an easy visual guide for where to turn the hem up. I included more examples of this in a prior post about finishing techniques that I have used on many of my garments.imageI love both of these dresses and I know that they will get a lot of use.imageIronically though today it feels like spring so I now have visions of summer sleeveless Washi dresses dancing in my head. Great pattern! So versatile.

I still have a couple of large pieces of fabric purchased on that trip in October and I recently used some of a birthday gift to get some beautiful fat quarters that I plan to  sew into quilts for my children. I have been quilting for 25 years but I had a long hiatus during my main parenting years and it is amazing how many new wonderful fabric lines there are. I can’t wait to work with them.

Link: Washi Dress

 

 

 

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My Unplugged Sundays

 The view from the couch on an unplugged Sunday.imageMorning light through the window of my front door at Sunrise Valentine’s Day 2016.imageMy new year’s resolution for 2016 was to keep Sundays as a day of rest. After almost 9 years of working most weekend days, I decided to do what I have to do to keep this one day a week as a day off. I don’t work and I don’t generally go on social media. It has been a wonderful treat. I have loved having unrushed time, being able to attend church regularly, having big blocks of time when I am awake and well-rested to sew, having the time and energy to go for a walk or cook a nice dinner.imageBut probably my favorite thing is waking up early and knowing that I don’t have to go anywhere and reading in the early morning quiet as the sun comes up. When every other day of the week means getting up early to rush off to work, this early morning time is a gift every week. It doesn’t ever get old.imageHappy Sunday!
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About Me, Sewing, unplugged, Washi Dress Pattern

Sewversary and Goals for 2016

imageThe view out the window of my sewing room on a recent unplugged Sunday.

One year ago on February 7th a freak snowstorm gave me an unexpected day off and I started on a journey of sewing garments that has brought me so much fun (and a whole new me-made wardrobe) over the past year. I had sewn some children’s clothes when my kids were little and had been a quilter for many years but work and life kept me too busy for hobbies for many years and it was just this last year when life calmed down a bit that I was able to think about sewing again. And this year, for the first time, I made clothes for myself. Specifically, I made 8 Washi dresses, 5 Bianca dresses and 1 Bianca blouse, 6 Beatrix blouses: 2 of them sleeveless and one of them in a tunic length, a Pearl Shift flannel dress, 4 Ruby dresses, 1 Ruby blouse, 3 Voila blouses and 2 Pocket Skirts and a New Look 6095 Shift Dress. Three of the garments were for my daughter  and I made one pair of PJ’s for another daughter but the rest I have been wearing and enjoying all year. I have basically replaced my entire work wardrobe-slacks excluded although I don’t wear slacks very often- with garments I have sewn. Some favorites below:

When I started sewing again, I didn’t set out with any specific numbers or goals in mind. I made a Washi dress, a Ruby blouse and a Voila blouse and then it was May and I was so inspired by the posts on Instagram for Me Made May that I sewed several garments that month to be able to join in- which I did about half way through the month. I  had set up an Instagram account in April because I wanted to have a place to keep track of my sewing life. I had no idea that there was such an amazing sewing community there. It has been wonderful to have experienced sewers give me advice and comment on my projects. It was totally unexpected and a wonderful surprise. One thing I did this year that I hope to do again is to rent a cabin in Maine and bring my sewing machine. I didn’t go just to sew. I went for a couple of days of R and R when I dropped my daughter off at college but how nice to have my sewing machine on the rainy day and have some unstructured time to work on some projects in a beautiful setting.imageI also made 3 dresses that were fails- all of which were for other people. I find it a challenge to sew for people other than myself and  the one daughter who is close to my size. Two of my fails were made of knit fabric-I need to work on my sewing with knits skills- and one dress made of a somewhat stiff satiny party dress material that is hard to work with. I also sewed 2 felted wool sweater quilts that were not fails! These were inspired by a beautiful blanket I purchased over ten years ago in the Berkshires from Crispina. I followed the very clear tutorial by Catherine Newman and I was happy with the results.image

imageAs were the recipients.imageI used the leftover plaid flannel for facings on a Pearl Shift. image

imageI finished these two early this week so technically first garments of the new year! They have already been worn to work. I bought some heavy cotton flannel on sale at Joanne’s before Christmas. I am so happy with my first Pearl and I know these will get worn all the time too. Great for those snowy cold days with leggings or skinny jeans and boots. imageSo all in all 35 successful garments, 3 learning experiences and the 2 afghans. I am going to be honest and say that I am not sure how I did this but many of the suggestions that Christine Haynes makes in her blog post on finding time to sew are true for me. I sew in little bits of time interspersed with one long afternoon or evening a week. I actually work 2 jobs as a nurse and many weeks this year I worked 7 days a week, so I can’t stay up late to sew-it is just not possible. Other than when I had the deadline for a gift such as the afghans for Christmas, I only sew when I have the energy so it doesn’t feel pressured or like a chore. I don’t watch TV ever. I don’t exercise enough. So other than work and reading, sewing is the way I spend my downtime. On an average week I can generally sew one garment but I tend to sew them in pairs. It ends up being more efficient to cut out two of the same thing. More than two doesn’t work so well though. I still have several unfinished Ruby blouses that just need a bit of time to finish but doing more than two at a time ended up being overwhelming.

In the coming year, I will probably do more of the same. More Washi’s, a couple more Voila blouses and Pocket Skirts since they are great basics. Definitely will be finishing the Ruby blouses! Some more Pjs for my daughter and I would like to try to make a pair of cropped linen pants to wear with the blouses I have made. I am thinking of trying the new Cali Faye Hampshire Trouser. I also have another couple of Beatrix blouses, one in a tunic length planned. I am also hoping to make the Emery Dress and the Anna Maria Horner Painted Portrait dress. I am thinking about trying the Pearl Shift in a chambray or linen. I am also hand quilting a long time project and slowly making progress. I am hoping to quilt with friends so that goes a bit quicker. This year, my New Year’s resolution was to not work Sundays at all, something I haven’t been able to do in years due to jobs, finances etc. It has already made a difference knowing that I have that day off every week to look forward to. I have been able to go back to church regularly, something I haven’t been able to do in ten years-yikes! I also made a resolution to keep Sundays unplugged. I am not a TV watcher but I can lose a lot of time on the computer, phone, on Facebook and Instagram and while I value the community so much, I am definitely benefiting from that once a week 24 hour break from screens. I read more and I enjoy the peace.  I am so grateful for my sewing year and I am excited to see what the new year brings! Wishing you happy sewing, beautiful unplugged moments and peace in 2016!

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Made By Rae Patterns, Sewing

A New Look for Beatrix

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Last summer, armed with new found knowledge of facings, buttons and sleeves from the MadeByRae Beatrix sewalong, I decided to tackle a basic shift dress pattern that I bought many years ago and never used, New Look 6095.

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The pattern appeared to be very straightforward with one exception: I took the directions out at some point in the last year and misplaced them. Yikes! So I had pattern pieces but no instructions. This didn’t end up being a big problem although later this year I found the pattern online and bought it again so as to be better equipped before I make it again. The dress is a very simple shape with darts in the front and a neckline that is very similar to the Beatrix style and with two diamond shaped darts in the back to create shape and make the dress somewhat more fitted than the other styles I have made this year. I made version A but I took the sleeves from the pattern and added length to them using the Beatrix sleeve as my template.

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The front is one piece cut on the fold and the back is two identical sides which I ended up cutting on the fold as one piece by mistake (I tend to do this) and then cut into two separate sides.

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The advantage is that the pattern matching is awesome when you do it this way although I didn’t plan it. I used this  beautiful Cotton and Steel fabric which I love.

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I ended up making three muslins to get the fit right. Yes this was time-consuming but since the basic pattern was only three pieces it wasn’t terrible, although I did go through a lot of fabric making the muslins (I am now cutting them up to use as lining in other projects.) What I learned is that you sometimes have to play around with the fit for a while and just because your waist is smaller than the shape of the dress, it isn’t necessarily flattering to taper to the waist too dramatically because then your hips seem larger.Yes this should be intuitive but it was really interesting to make these tiny adjustments and see such a change in the shape which is why I ended up having to do it three times!

Based on the patterns measurements I should have worn a 14 or 16  which is not my normal size. I think I originally cut between the 12 and 14 lines. I ended up scaling back down closer to a 10-12 but I ended up using the dart placement per the larger size pattern placement as the darts placement is different depending on the size. When I sized down, I sewed the darts where the smaller size dictated but then found that the fit wasn’t as flattering so I ended up making a smaller size with the dart placement per the larger size. Now that I have the pattern adjusted the way I like it, what I need to do is to trace it onto tracing paper (on my long to do list) because it is currently a hodge-podge of tissue paper pattern pieces with some added paper with some of the lines re-traced. I plan to make it again at least twice starting with the beautiful fabrics below:

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Sewing this pattern and playing with the fit taught me that that even small adjustments can result in a big change in the shape and drape of a garment. By experimenting, I got a nice fit for everything except the neckline which I should have adjusted as it does gape a bit in the end. I will fix it next time!

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I drafted a facing for the neckline and sewed across the shoulder seam to tack it in place as Rae teaches in the Beatrix sewalong.

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I used a Moda turquoise fabric for the neck facing and to face the hems.

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My hem facing ended up smaller than planned because I used too narrow a facing strip. I used this Moda fabric all summer to face and line several projects and I was almost out when I got to this dress.

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One could use a zipper but I decided to try a button loop because I had a large turquoise button that I thought would work well. I followed the directions for the hand sewn button loop in the Sewaholic book: Sewtionary which is a great resource. I  am really happy with how it came out in the end. I drafted a little facing for the button opening. I just sort of made it up and it works.

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I an happy with everything except the neck gaping but I know how to fix that using the hollow chest adjustment technique that I used making the Beatrix. I will be making this again soon and this time will have the instructions. Woohoo! I am interested to see if it makes  a big difference. Changes I will make to the next version: wider hem facing, hollow chest adjustment and slightly longer sleeves. Otherwise I am really happy with this. It works well with sandals in the summer and with boots and tights in the winter with an olive green cardigan.

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Sewing

The Pocket Skirt and the Voila Blouse by Cali Faye

imageEarlier this year I made two patterns from the Basics Collection by Cali Faye. They are both straightforward to sew and flattering to wear. I was inspired to make the Voila Shirt by Erin‘s versions on the Hungie Gungie blog. I made the first one in a navy blue Cotton and Steel double gauze. I cut a medium but took about 6 inches out of the width of the front and back of the shirt based on Erin’s recommendations. I was very happy with the fit. The neckline dips somewhat low and I ended up reversing it and wearing the back as the front which actually works.  The shirt is comfortable and I wear it with skirts and jeans. (Somewhat blurry picture of the the blouse with my pocket skirt below.)imageI then went on to make two more Voila blouses with leftover fabric from my quilting days. I thought these cotton floral prints would work well with the shape for summer blouses. imageI made the two blouses at the same time which went fast. I lined the bodice of the cotton versions with white cotton muslin and I lined the navy double gauze version with the shirt fabric. I took 8 inches out of the width of the front and back of the floral shirts since the first navy blouse was still very full even after taking 6 inches of volume out front and back.

 

imageShirt above prior to hemming.  Shirt below getting bra straps added to lining of bodice.imageThe shirts fit well and the neckline is flattering.imageI made the Pocket Skirt in a khaki green heavy cotton from Joanne’s. It worked well for the skirt and it has become a basic that I wore often all summer.image I cut a large and added 2 inches to the length. Pocket detail below. The construction is very straightforward. imageAttaching the waistband.image

I made a second version in a cotton linen-like print from Joanne’s. imageIn the process of making the second skirt, I realized that I had reversed the front and back of the waistband when I made version one and so fixed that on version 2. Ironically, the second skirt did not fit as well because the front of the Calie Faye skirt is designed with more fullness than the back and my shape is the opposite. Luckily my daughter wears the same size but has a slightly different shape and it fits her perfectly so off it went to Florida where she wore it last summer.image

imageWhen I made version two, I sewed the zipper a bit low leaving a gap at the top of the waistband so I made a button placket to hide the gap. I am happy with how it turned out.imageimageI will definitely be making new versions of both of these patterns. Things I will do differently next time: french seams on the double gauze versions due to fraying, reverse the waistband on the pocket skirt, add more length if I make it in another flowy fabric such as linen or rayon. It was fine at the shorter length in the khaki but I think longer would be more flattering in flowy fabrics.  I would also do hem facings for future shirts and skirts to cut down on fraying.

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A Quick Post on Finishing the Beatrix Hem

The pattern directions for the Beatrix show some techniques for creating a very finished-looking curved hem. I followed these when I made my Mudan Moss Beatrix and I was happy with the results but since then, I have chosen to use hem facings as I do when I sew my Washi and Bianca dresses as I like the extra weight that it gives the hem and I think they lie flatter. Doing them this way is quicker and I also like the contrast of using a second fabric for the hem. When I made the Beatrix in a tunic length, I made the hem facing a bit wider and used two rows of stitching as I felt it was more balanced. When I finish the hems this way, they tend to not curl up, something that has happened with my more narrow, traditional hems. I am also very happy with the look of the stitching about an inch up from the hem. Here are some pictures of the results.imageAfter many wearings and washings below.imageimageimageimageimageimage

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The Pearl Shift: Perfect in Plaid

Picture of my wearable muslin of the Pearl Shift pattern by Green Bee patterns after being worn and washed at least twenty times.imageThe neckline facing is fraying due to my fabric choice and not using a wide enough strip of fabric to be able to turn it under and have a clean finish but it isn’t visible and it hasn’t affected the wearing of this garment which is in regular circulation. So comfortable, great right out of dryer, doesn’t need ironing and the heavy cotton flannel drapes well and doesn’t wrinkle too much when worn.imageIt is comfortable and cute over black leggings with boots and I have several more versions planned.  I was not sure about this pattern at first because I was afraid it might be too shapeless as a dress and I wasn’t sure if the flared shape of the hem would be flattering but then I thought about making it as a tunic and wearing it over leggings so although I normally add length when I make dresses, I made this exactly as the pattern dictates cutting between the medium and large sewing lines. I added a zipper as a design feature. I don’t ever use it, I just put this on with it zipped but I was really happy with the look of the metal zipper with the yellow on the plaid.imageThe pattern matching worked out because I made a mistake and cut the two back pieces on the fold as one piece by mistake and then cut it apart. This turned out to work in my favor for matching the plaids!imageI used some of the blue grey woven cotton fabric that I used for one of my Bianca dresses to face the hem, sleeves and neckline. I made the dress very quickly so it is not super neat on the inside. I liked the look of having the neckline topstitched about an inch down from the neckline.imageWhen I make it again I will use French seams for a neater effect and less fraying. The fabric is a thick cotton flannel bought on sale at Joanne’s which is where I bought the zippers. I have definitely gotten my money’s worth from this dress and this pattern. It even made it into our Christmas card!imageI went back to Joanne’s and bought several more yards of this fabric in different designs with plans to make more versions for myself and my daughter. I need about 2 1/2 yards to make the dress/tunic but found 2 yards of a second plaid I really liked so I pieced the sleeves. I don’t think it will be super noticeable.image

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This tweedy looking fabric is also a heavy cotton flannel.

imageI plan to use this plaid for the facings on the blue tweed Pearl:imageFuture Pearl Shifts:imageThese are high on my to-do list for this winter. Great pattern! Easy but with a nice shape. I definitely recommend it.

 

 

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The Beatrix blouse as a Tunic

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I have made two sleeveless Beatrix blouses and one with three quarter sleeves, all blogged here. More recently, I made a pair of short sleeved blouses using beautiful Cotton and Steel fabric. They are great worn with corduroys. I made a size M and added two inches to the length and made a small hollow chest adjustment by folding the pattern when I cut out the front.

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I wear them all the time. Great on their own or layered under a sweater.

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Seriously, anything made with this fabric would be great but it was perfect for a Beatrix blouse. image

 

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As I like to make two of a pattern at a time, I also made a version in the mustard mustang fabric that has found its way in to many of my makes. I just love the horses galloping across the back.

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Then around Thanksgiving, I had just made the Pearl Shift dress by Green Bee patterns which I will blog about later this week and I got the idea to lengthen the Beatrix to tunic length. I used the Pearl pattern pieces to determine the length and I graded the Beatrix piece out to the width of the Pearl and then redrew the curved hem line in a slightly wider version. This shows my process. This is my second Beatrix tunic which is currently in the pipeline.

I fold the pattern just a bit at the neckline which works great for the hollow chest adjustment.

I made my first Beatrix Tunic with beautiful aqua Mochi fabric from Cotton and Steel and used the same fabric for the facings as I did for the button placket: Ghost Saltines by Cotton and Steel.

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Close up of sleeve.

imageI loved this border pattern so I pieced the sleeves in order to make the most of it.imagefound flower buttons at Joanne’s that echoed the shape of the flowers in the pattern.

imageHamming it up for my husband the photographer. I don’t usually ask him to take pictures but I was so excited about this make! It is great over leggings with boots. I was really happy with the final shape.

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Making this was no more work than making the Beatrix blouse. I love them both but I like that this version gives a little more coverage so I can wear it with leggings. I love the blouse version with skirts and slacks but the tunic version can also be worn with leggings since it covers just enough. I expect there to be many more versions of both the Beatrix blouse and the tunic in my future. I am excited to make a new tunic version in this green cookie drop fabric. I plan to use this great pink fabric for the facings and the inside of the button placket. I plan to try to sew the button placket with facings as one would a hem. I like having just a bit of wacky fabric peek out of my garments. To be continued!

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